TriLife Coaching and Racing Team

Cold Weather Cycling Apparel

Ross Galitsky / TriLife Coaching

Quick navigation / topic jump:
• Apparel and Dress Strategy - Head to Toes
• Head / Face
• Arms / Hands
• Torso
• Legs
• Feet
• Other Gear

Cold Weather Cycling Apparel

Endurance athletes do not have the luxury of being "seasonal" with their training if they live in places with challenging winter weather. The peaking and/or racing season for some athletes may start as early as late winter, while for others a typically cold spring does not allow for prolonged, leisurely and comfortable accumulation of time in the saddle. The result is brutally simple: training in the cold is a necessity for many athletes. Such training can be safe and rewarding in terms of maintaining and improving cycling fitness when done with proper gear and preparation.

Cold weather can significantly impact the physiological and mental responses to training. It can also post health risks (from illness or injury). Humans, as warm-blooded animals, must maintain their body temperature within a narrow range. During exposure to cold, body temperature is maintained by increasing metabolic heat production and/or by reducing the rate of heat loss. Heat production is achieved by exercise/movement or by shivering (involuntary muscle contractions). Heat conservation is accomplished through clothing or by constricting the blood vessels going to the skin’s surface and to certain parts of the body (mainly the extremities). The extremities (head, hands and feet) are the most difficult parts of the body to keep warm because they are the farthest from the body’s core.

Exposure to cold may result in two serious health hazards: hypothermia and frostbite. Hypothermia begins to set in when the body’s core temperature falls to 95 degrees (approximately when shivering starts) but if core temperature continues to drop, humans may lose consciousness (about 85 degrees). Frostbite onset on the bike comes much faster. As skin temperature drops to the mid-60s, it may feel like a burn or a tingle on the skin. When the temperature falls to 50 degrees, skin feels numb. If chilled to 27 degrees, skin freezes and frostbite is the result.

The effect of cold on performance depends on the severity of the cold and the type of exercise. Heat loss is a function of body core temperature, air temperature and wind speed. In endurance sports, exposure to cold reduces core temperature and maximal aerobic power (VO2 max), resulting in impaired performance. But moderate cold usually has an opposite effect; it produces a positive effect on performance. More specifically, research indicates that the 36 to 52 degree air temperature range is optimal for most endurance sports, with athletes performing better (taking longer to reach fatigue) at 36 degrees than at 68 degrees by 30%. Once core temperature drops below its normal point, though, cardiac output drops, and hemoglobin and oxygen bind more tightly, making the process of oxygen extraction in the muscles more difficult, resulting in a need for 15 to 20% more oxygen to maintain the same performance level.

While outdoor cycling exposes an athlete to a self-generated wind chill factor (based on the speed of riding), it also increases metabolic heat production. Therefore, appropriate cold weather cycling apparel, due to contradicting demands of outdoor cycling, must be both warm and comfortable (providing adequate insulation) at some points of a ride but also must allow for the dissipation of heat and moisture during other times. Because of these demands, apparel should be selected for appropriateness during the entire training session, capable of meeting the needs of the warm up, the main set (when metabolic heat production is highest), the and cool down. An athlete’s metabolism, personal tolerance for heat or cold, fitness level, body composition, riding style, speed and the route profile should play as large a role in determining what to wear as environmental factors like wind, humidity and temperature.

A good test of apparel appropriateness is simple: if you feel quite warm or are sweating at the start of the ride, then you are likely overdressed and will overheat and sweat profusely during the training session. Depending on personal tolerance and ride characteristics, you may choose to feel cool, or even cold, before you start riding in order to avoid overheating later. Standard apparel strategy is to be able to add or remove layers and/or zip and unzip them as needed to stay in equilibrium between too hot and too cold.

Apparel and Dress Strategy - Head to Toes

When shopping for cycling apparel, try it on with your body in a cycling-like position. After all, you will not be riding a bike standing up straight while gazing at your reflection in a full length store mirror. To fit properly, cycling apparel should feel almost like a loose layer of second skin — snug but comfortable, and with minimal bagging or wrinkles. Attempt to try on apparel while wearing other pieces you would wear while riding in the cold.

Head / Face

There are many options to protect your head, face, neck, or combination of such, and to retain body warmth. Experiment and select among such pieces as hat, skullcap, headband/earband, neck gaiter, Buff®, balaclava and/or facemask, and try them in combinations. They may have assorted thicknesses, from a lightweight fabric to thick fleece and even Windstopper® or similar wind-blocking membranes. Your face, head and neck will need different amounts of protection as conditions vary. Uncovering your head is usually the simplest way to cool yourself. You may need to remove or replace the sizing pads in your helmet and/or adjust helmet straps to fit over cold weather headgear. Before the ride, test your visual field/peripheral vision when looking straight and when turning your head.

There are certain helmet-specific products designed to fit comfortably and safely under a helmet: bike caps, beanies, skullcaps and helmet liners. Some of these may extend over the ears (and the back of the head) or cover the ears completely. Neck gaiters, balaclavas, and face masks provide larger coverage. A balaclava is a combination hat/facemask/neck protector that covers the whole head, exposing only the eyes and, maybe, the mouth. It is usually reserved for severe weather conditions, and is made from various thicknesses of fabric. Balaclavas do not always have to be worn fully over the face — the face opening can be pulled down to expose the complete face while keeping the ears and neck covered, and in better conditions the lower part can be rolled up to create a skullcap. Balaclavas usage may be tricky, though. If they cover mouth the wrong way, your breath may fog up your eyewear and/or ice up your face protection. [Balaclavas and face masks, anecdotally, are helpful in reducing exercise-induced airway narrowing (“exercise induced asthma”) by making inhaled air less dry.

A more versatile headgear choice is a Buff®, a tube of fabric about 20 inches long that can be worn in many different styles, from the traditional (hat, skullcap, headband, balaclava) to the creative (tube top, sweat band, scrunchy). Lesser coverage is provided by headbands and ear muffs. Some ear muffs seat over the ears, some are placed on the helmet straps. Both styles should be carefully positioned for safety in order to provide adequate visual and auditory input.

If head wear still provides inadequate protection from the cold and the wind, you can tape over helmet vents or invest in a helmet cover (a perversion of the helmet’s intended design of keeping your head cool by allowing maximum ventilation and evaporation). Please spare your training partners from novelty helmet covers.

Sport-specific eyewear (with clear or lightly tinted lenses) is mandatory to keep eyes protected, tearless and healthy when riding into cold wind and ice particles. But be aware that eyewear at certain humidity levels and temperatures is prone to fogging, as warm moist air exhaled or released from a jacket mixes with cool air, creating condensation on the lenses. Since cold air is very dry, moisture tends to disperse instantly, or soon enough if some ventilation is provided (tilting your head to channel more air under glasses is a typical strategy to de-fog lenses). Some cycling glasses are designed with anti-fog features, and there are also anti-fog products for eyewear. Contact lens wearers should be aware that in cold weather lenses can freeze and harden, which may result in blurred vision or the contact lens falling out.

Personal tolerances will dictate if (or at what point) you want to protect your exposed face skin with skin cream, lip balm or other dermatological products. Even around 30 degrees, at fast enough riding speeds, there is enough wind chill to freeze exposed skin, so monitor your face carefully. Once skin gets past numbing stage and continues to be chilled, you need to warm it up soon before it becomes frostbitten.

Arms / Hands

Hands and fingers tend to take the brunt of wind chill — being an exposed frontal edge of your body — but must stay sufficiently agile to allow safe and efficient bike handling. So, the challenge for winter cycling gloves is to provide a snug fit for warmth but not be too tight, bulky or clumsy that they impair dexterity. Tight gloves may restrict blood flow, resulting in colder or frozen hands. Loose gloves also will result in colder hands and clumsier, even dangerous, bike handling. Well-designed winter gloves should be longer in the wrist, with an elastic or Velcro® cuff to prevent cold air from seeping in and to close any apparel gap between hand and arm. Always test gloves before buying them, and while test-wearing them, grip a handlebar and brake levers to insure correct and safe fit in riding-specific positions. Good glove designs are pre-curved for dexterity and to limit fatigue, have no bulky seams, and incorporate areas with skin-friendly surfaces, such as a patch at the back of the thumb or the palm to allow face and eyewear wiping.

There are many types and designs of insulated, windproof and/or waterproof full-finger cycling gloves. Mittens and two-or three-fingered "lobster” gloves are the warmest option but clumsier, decreasing bike handling dexterity and control. You may also consider a layering approach, with thin liners inside the outer gloves/shells. Having and/or carrying such liners are great for any ride activities that would be challenging in thicker gloves (flat tire repairs, to clean eyewear lenses, or any time when big gloves have to come off). Women-specific gloves are usually cut narrower and have shorter length fingers.

For winter bike commuters and adventure racers, bike pogies (oversized mittens installed over the handlebars) provide the ultimate protection, allowing riders to wear light gloves even in extreme cold.

Arm warmers are one of the most versatile cycling gear items. They are light, easy to pull on and off, can be stuffed into a jersey pocket or rolled down into wristbands, provide an extra layer on the arms and/or convert a short-sleeve jersey to long sleeved one. For triathlons that start on cold and/or wet mornings, arm warmers paired with standard racing apparel (and a Tyvek® sheet, see below in Other Gear) can make a comfortable, and easily modifiable, set up.

Torso

Layering clothing allows an athlete to keep core temperature consistent throughout changing effort levels and environmental conditions. There are three typical torso layers: a base layer designed to wick moisture away, a middle layer for insulation/warmth, and an outer layer for protection from the elements. Such as approach, especially with apparel pieces you can modify and/or remove, is the only correct strategy. None of the items should be so tight as to restrict breathing, blood circulation, or bike handling. Avoid torso layers that are too short, since they may expose the lower back once you are in a more stretched out/in aerobars riding position.

The base layer (or under layer) refers to the apparel that is right next to the skin and is very close fitting. As an athlete's core temperature rises (as the level of activity increases), the sweat mechanism is activated. If sweat is trapped against the skin, it will make the athlete cold and wet, even with other apparel layers designed for warmth and to protect against the elements. Base layers allow efficient management of such body heat and perspiration cycle by wicking sweat away from the body while not retaining moisture near the skin. Such apparel is made from synthetic, moisture-hating and wicking fabrics, allowing the skin to stay relatively dry by pulling moisture away from the skin and sending it to an outer layer where it can evaporate. Most cycling base layers are form fitted and/or anatomically contoured with a long tail in order to allow for better functional fit and comfortable layering. Base layering pieces include bras, briefs, compression shorts, tights, and sleeveless, short- and long-sleeve tops. Some base layers incorporate wind-blocking membranes in front.

The middle layer should provide insulation to retain body heat and transport moisture from the under layer without being too tight or heavy. This might be a short sleeve cycling jersey with arm warmers, a long sleeve jersey or top, vests or thicker wicking fabric tops. Such tops are made from warm but light synthetic fabrics (fleece, polypropylene, Capilene®, Drilete®, Thermax®, etc.) and wools. Insulating fibers of such fabrics work by trapping air (the more air that is trapped, the more efficient the insulation) and by reflecting back the body’s heat. These fabrics have to ventilate well to allow sweat and some body heat to escape while keeping the body warm and dry. You can layer it with another intermediate insulating layer for additional warmth. Full or 3/4 length zippers allow you to fine tune personal comfort by adjusting insulation and ventilation during ride. These pieces should have a looser fit than base layers but should also fit under outerwear without bunching.

The outer layer is designed for protection against the wind, rain and snow. It should have a windproof front and arms and posses breathable capabilities, allowing simultaneous blocking of the wind and evaporation of the sweat. A jacket with a long and/or dual directional front zipper that is easy to operate with one hand allows frequent adjustments while riding. Good cycling-specific outer layers are designed to protect all potentially exposed to the elements body parts (wrists, neck, and lower back) even when rider is in a stretched out position. On cold rainy days a top layer should be waterproof (you may still be wet from sweat and condensation but at least you will stay warm). Heavier jackets made from Gore-Tex® and similar waterproof fabrics may trap moisture inside and/or become clogged with ice at below-freezing temperatures.

A sleeveless cycling vest is another highly versatile apparel piece. It may be constructed from variety of fabrics, and may have a mesh or solid fabric back, making some vests more appropriate for layering in the cold and some for wind protection during summer. Such a lightweight outer layer can be easily stored in a jersey pocket.

Legs

Tights, bibs, undershorts, and combinations of such are used for lower body protection. Layering below the torso is trickier, as more personal preferences dictate solutions. Some athletes use tights (cycling or multisport) or pad-less bibs on the top of cycling shorts, others double up cycling shorts or wear a cycling-specific under layer or thin shorts without padding. Windproof underwear and sports shorts are also becoming more acceptable (in a dire situation, a mitten, hat or FedEx envelope can be carefully placed in front of the shorts or tights).

Leg or knee warmers provide good flexibility in changing weather conditions and allow easy layering. Knees, as one of the areas without a good vascular network to keep them warm, should be covered below 65 degrees. Warmers come in a variety of thicknesses, fabrics and details (may have zippers, windproof panels, and different cuts).

Tights and bibs that incorporate water- and wind-proof fabrics and membranes are not as flexible and may not breathe well. Such fabrics/membranes located in front of the hip and/or knee can make pedaling much harder and may put additional stress on underlying muscles. While zippered ankle closures on the back / sides of the tights and leg warmers are great for putting on and taking them off, zippers may be uncomfortable for some athletes due to their locations when fully zipped up. Similarly, circumference of the leg “holes” and tightness of silicone or stitched gripper is different from brand to brand, suggesting trying them on prior to purchasing.

Feet

Feet are one of the hardest body parts to keep warm (for hydrodynamic and physiological reasons), so in addition to proper footwear, athletes should utilize good pedal stroke technique that minimizes downward mashing in order to decrease pressure on the soles of the feet and to keep feet relaxed enough to allow toe wiggling.

For feet to stay warm or “comfortable enough,” there should be a balance between the rate of metabolic heat production and the insulation and ventilation of your footwear (socks, shoes, and booties). Cycling shoes are typically designed to cool and to ventilate feet in warm weather. In cold weather, you want almost the opposite, so start the winterizing process by modifying shoes within their design parameters: replace standard insoles with aftermarket solid warm/insulated insoles (there are many grades of such, from felt and wool to electrically warmed units) and/or tape over ventilation holes and slots. There are many combinations of booties, plastic bags and socks that can be used to address the unsuitability of summer cycling shoes for winter riding. A really thick insulation layer typically needs to be added outside the shoe but inside the booties. If these strategies (layers of socks, booties, chemical inserts, etc.) do not work, and you can rationalize owning an additional pair of cycling shoes, consider purchasing shoes designed specifically for cold weather riding made by Sidi, Shimano and Lake (choose a larger size to accommodate thicker or layered socks).

To keep feet warm, feet have to stay reasonably dry. Wear socks made from technical fibers that wick away moisture from the skin while insulating fibers keep the area warm and that are long enough to cover any gaps between shoes and the bottoms of tights/leg warmers. Be aware that decreasing foot space in the shoe, restricting blood circulation and/or forbidding moisture to escape from the foot (by stuffing too thick or too many pairs of socks into already snug cycling shoe, or by using vapor barrier plastics or fabrics too near the foot) will result in cold feet, since insulation works only when body heat can warm up air pockets within the fabric surrounding the skin. Compressing these pockets reduces the potential for warmth retention and filling them with moisture compresses them even more. Remember, more heat is required to warm water than air, and water conducts heat away from the skin faster than air does. Cold air chills the moisture around the skin, resulting in colder feet. In order for any wicking material to work as intended, there has to be a place for the moisture to escape. If footwear (socks, shoes and booties) provide adequate ventilation, moisture that is wicked away from the skin can evaporate. Some technical socks do not rely solely on the breathability of the shoe to evaporate sweat, they also use hydrophilic (water loving) yarns with wicking yarns, in order to absorb the moisture and then push it and keep it away from the skin. This is where a vapor barrier can become counterproductive. Another argument for good socks and keeping evaporation capabilities intact is that once sweat is trapped near the skin, the skin will begin to re-absorb moisture, making it more sensitive to heat and pressure, and prone to blisters and irritation.

If you determine that a single pair of higher weave and tight (but not blood flow constraining) socks is not enough, experiment with a sock liner under the outer sock. Sock liners are very thin, lightweight socks specifically designed to be worn next to the skin under another sock. The purpose of the liner is to wick moisture away from the skin and provide additional insulation. While layering is a correct approach, it must work within a shoe’s volume constraints. If you jam in too many layers, they will compress your feet and limit blood circulation, making your feet feel colder. So if your shoes are too tight to accommodate thicker socks or double layers, consider plastic baggies (in and outside the shoe) or thick woolen socks over the shoes but under the booties (make sure to cut out holes for pedal cleats).

Booties (overshoes usually made of neoprene and/or wind resistant fabrics; try heavy duty wool socks if booties are nowhere to be found, with cut out holes for pedal cleats) and neoprene toe covers can be added over cycling shoes for another level of warmth and wind protection. Learn to differentiate wind, rain or time-trial race booties from ones made for true cold weather conditions, notice how much and where shoe surface area is still exposed (usually on the bottom), what type of insulation is used, and its thickness. Note that neoprene does not breathe well, so wearing neoprene booties without a sock liner or good wicking sock will result in wet clammy feet. If winter booties are not enough to keep your feet comfortable, try using plastic baggies around your toes and/or duct tape the front section of booties.

Other Gear

When the ground is wet, the rear wheel fender is your (and your training partners’) best friend. Such devices may look inelegant and cumbersome on a road bike but your backside, your bike and the people riding with you will appreciate this piece of equipment. It keeps your bike and apparel cleaner and dryer, and protects the faces and bodies of riders behind from road spray.

On a related note, road spray deposited on your face and water bottle may contain assorted things you want to avoid ingesting or having on your skin (runoff from agricultural and industrial production and transportation, animal poop with potential viruses, salt, dirt and so on). Water bottles with flip top lids, while being more cumbersome, help with this issue since their covers protect the drinking spout and bottle top.

If the temperature drops significantly during the ride, and you are unprepared and underdressed, use an old school solution of newspapers, and/or plastic or garbage bags as emergency insulation layer(s) for your torso and extremities.

A more permanent DIY cold weather cycling piece is a sheet of Tyvek® (the most common source is a FedEx or US Postal Service envelope). A single or double sheet can be a good substitute for a windproof layer between normal apparel layers. Tyvek® is light and water-resistant so it works well as impromptu wind protection for the torso, but it will limit the layers beneath it from wicking away moisture.

Disposable chemical heat packs are inserts that fit into gloves, shoes or booties and pockets. They come in many styles, for example, as glove inserts or toe warmers. Chemical heat packs last two to five hours, depending on conditions. The reusable versions are less practical, being heavy and large. In addition to battery-powered socks and insoles made for the outdoor market, there exist cycling shoe-specific wireless heated insoles with automatic temperature controls, such as Toasters®, made by Sidi.

Colder weather usually means winter and decreased hours of daylight resulting in training and/or commuting to training in the dark. Most athletes in urban areas do not need more illumination than a small LED bike light on the front and a flashing red LED taillight for safely. If you attach such lights to your apparel, test their position(s) for efficiency and safety.

Cyclists using toe straps or Powergrips® (instead of clipless pedals) can easily accommodate winter footwear that’s warmer than traditional cycling shoes. Make sure to test and practice feet removal from such pedal systems.

A final reminder on staying warm on the bike is not to expect that even the best and/or most expensive technical apparel will keep you warm by itself. Your body generates metabolic heat to keep your inner core warm before it shares any excess heat with the extremities. If your core temperature drops, the body reduces the flow of blood to the extremities in order to maintain the core temperature and protect your vital organs. So keep your core warm (which also means keeping it fueled with calories) and keep moving actively. To help the extremities, periodically and when it safe, remove one hand from the handlebars and clench and unclench fingers, do facial "gymnastics" and wiggle your toes. If you are freezing (getting hypothermic) and in trouble from the cold, immediately get off the bike and run (may choose to push the bike) until you warm up.